Trapani, Palermo, Erice

On Friday morning 5 July, we leave the Egadi Islands for Trapani 10 miles across to mainland Sicily.  Its been a windy night on a lee shore and our neighbours at anchor report having a worrying time with not much room under their keel.  

The ferry towers over us in the haulout bay...

Richard has not been well again and finds the business of mooring the boat on arrival quite a strain, bringing on the back pain again with a vengeance, especially as we have to move the boat three times in the space of a few hours, starting off in the haul-out bay, next to a huge ferry on the hard stand.  

The engineer comes on board and diagnoses a problem with the fuel injectors, demonstrating to us the fuel squirting out of them.  We are moved to a spot nearby, only to find ourselves down wind of the yard with gritty black dirt landing on the boat.  Within ten minutes the decks are filthy and Pippy starts to cry.  (It always works!)  In this busy harbour the powers that be find us a more suitable spot and we end the day in a very tight, shallow marina berth, where we will stay for the next five nights while the fuel injectors are taken out and serviced yet again.  

It is very costly and disappointing that we paid for this work to be done in Malta and it obviously has not been done properly. There was nothing wrong with them before we had them checked there.  We contact and advise Charlie Vela, Malta Yacht Services the mechanic who did the work of the problem we are having.  Sadly his behaviour brings the marine service industry in Malta into disrepute.  Most operators there are honest and efficient.

Its been a big day for us and a pizza off the boat is called for, just a short stroll a couple of blocks away to the railway station.  It is delicious - best pizza ever, but Richard has acute pain now and struggles to walk back to the boat.  He collapses against a building, on a street corner, almost home, one arm across Pippy's shoulder. Pippy has an arm around him and grabs his backpack in left hand as he gasps in agony and a shadow of movement reveals a huge negro guy walking around the corner behind us and taking a very interested look at Richard's backpack which Pippy clutches, returning the look with a glare as he moves on, glancing over his shoulder. He was probably just concerned, but has copped the look from Pippy so keeps on going and soon two young guys come along and help walk us back to the boat, but it is a stark reminder of how vulnerable we are.  It could have been very different. We are grateful for the kindness of the local people of Trapani. Back on the boat Richard feels better quite quickly and is soon fast asleep leaving Pippy awake and having an anxiety attack. Obviously the treatment on Richard's back in Malta has not been a success.... what now?  

Palermo

We had planned a bus trip to Palermo the next morning and surprisingly Richard says he is fine on waking, so off we go, a short walk from the marina and we catch a very comfortable bus for the 1 hour trip to Palermo where its easy to jump on a double decker bus and spend the day in relaxed style.  This has been a much dreamed of visit and it does not disappoint. 

The stunning hilltop Abbey at Monreale is our first choice. 

It is Saturday morning so it is being decorated for a wedding and the flowers are gorgeous, the view over Palermo surreal. 

We never get tired of the sight of wonderful produce...

On to the street market where sounds of opera being sung float from a nearby church - the soloist preparing for yet another wedding - a lovely rendition of Ave Maria mingles with purchases of Sicilian black currants and red carpet being laid through the narrow street for the bride.  Theatro Massimo sadly is closed but we see it from the outside which is really something. Sitting on the open top of the bus gives us a good view as we take in the sights and sounds of this wonderful city in a whistle stop tour.

Mt Erice

Red kite in residence

Sunday is probably not the best time to visit the ancient village on the top of this mountain. 

It is deserted when we arrive early afternoon, quite impressed with the fifteen minute cable car ride to the top and the views along the coast from there, not to mention the red kite which we spy while leaning over the edge and looking down. 

We are hot, hungry and tired, - a little grumpy - and the deserted town makes us wonder what we are going to do for refreshments, however we do eventually find ourselves a sandwich and a drink in the one cafe which appears to be open for business.

The views from up here are wonderful and the gardens deliciously cool to wander in.


Later in the day the town starts to buzz and people arrive in droves on the cable car. We sure got our timing wrong here as are tired and ready to quit for the day.

The ancient streets wind their way through the village and keep its secrets safe, however the recorded history of the temple at the very peak of the mountain speaks for itself.  The origins of Erice go back to when the cults of the Greek Goddess Aphrodite and Roman goddess Venice Ericina were celebrated in the temple at the very top … passing sailors would reach for the Goddess through sexual rites with hierodule priestesses housed in the temple.  

We wander around the site trying to imagine the goings on then head down through the lovely ancient village, before boarding the cable car to return to the bottom.

Tomorrow we will hopefully have some news on the fuel injectors and be able to move on.