15 July 2013

Sardinia via East Coast - Up Memory Lane

We are just past Capo Comino at 1900H when we see an anchorage tucked in behind a rocky reef extending a long way out.  Soon the anchor goes down in just over 5m and 500m off the long golden sandy beach.  As the light fades on the tranquil evening, we enjoy the rugged and beautiful landscape around us, absorbing the stillness and watching the sky change from vivid blue to pink, then fade into darkness.  A wind change coming off the land wafts the delicious fragrance of baked ancient mountains and pine forests, the scorched remnants of the day just past.

We sleep soundly suspended on a turquoise shimmering world and awake to a myriad of golden prisms arranging themselves in the blue crystal sea.  Soon the warming day sends a rolly motion into our heavenly spot so we move on, not wanting to spoil the memory of this place the way we have experienced it.

Its not long before we are sailing on the wind in a gentle 7 knot breeze, not quite laying our destination but we are in no hurry.  The coastline unfolds in front of us its golden ribbons of sandy beaches stretching away into the distance.  Each headland proudly displays an ancient stone watchtower and eventually we spot the beautiful old town of La Caletta, white chalky mountains behind the stone fortress on top of a small hill in the foreground.   All this is new territory to us - so wild, rugged and so lovely.

The breeze strengthens and draws us northwards until we spot La Tavola, fly through the passage, then past the cardinal marker at the southern entrance to Olbia Harbour.  About ready to stop for the day we try out the anchorage behind Isla di Figarolo (over an uncharted reef... woops 4 m under the keel and big lumpy rocks) then into the little bay behind.  Pippy's attempt to get the anchor into a tiny patch of clear sand misses as the bow gets blown off and we hook up in some weed, sliding along and not setting.  Up comes the anchor with a struggle, followed by embarassment due to the huge chunk of bright emerald green poseidon weed (roots and all) we have pulled up.  This weed is much prized for its ecological value and we do not attempt another shot at it, rather continuing on to a favourite spot we know about just a bit further up the coast past Capo Figari.

Cala di Volpe - superyacht hangout territory.  A great sandy anchorage and wonderful shelter.  We discovered this anchorage the last time we passaged southwards down this coast in September 2012. We had it pretty much to ourselves then.  Today its packed with superyachts but there is still room for us amongst the smaller yachts.  A very tepid swim times two or three follow, braced with beer and chippies on deck as we watch the passing parade of tenders heading in to the hotel on the shore.  

A very quick debate over getting the dinghy pumped and it and outboard commissioned follows, but we agree we are happy to sit and relax for the moment.  Well mostly relax that is, except for the time when we have to hold on to something so we don't get tipped off our seats by the wake from some tenders going ridiculously fast and close to us.

No comments: