Homeward Bound...

Decision Made – We are on our way home

It is decision time on board SY Matelot.  Well placed for our planned Atlantic Crossing this year, we have been having many conflicting thoughts about leaving European waters - areas that feel safe and familiar.  We are encouraged by these wise and encouraging words from a sailing friend who has almost completed a circumnavigation from Australia.  We hope to see them in New Zealand in 2015.  

“I remember reading an article about sailing and the fear that grips a competent sailor before they raise the anchor. The gist was that only an incompetent sailor would be nonchalant about heading off given the things that can go wrong, even on a short trip. On top of all the usual stuff like worrying about engine failure and the sails blowing out, you will also have the 'will I be well enough' worry given the challenges Cap’n Buck has faced in the last year.

I found leaving Australia and then Asia hard. It felt like there was no chance of turning back. I remember wanting to hang onto the Canaries and my dongle with internet connection, talking to my parents on skype until we sailed out of range.  It is tough knowing that you are moving away from the known. When we got through the Panama Canal I expected to feel relief that we'd come through unscathed. But that night I realised that the reason I couldn't hear the fat lady singing was that 'it wasn't over yet' and I might not feel like it was over till we reached New Zealand. ….”

These comments really sum up our thoughts right now as we make our final decisions committing to the passage back to New Zealand, ie, purchasing medical insurance for another year, ordering the Hydrovane to pick up in Gibraltar…  paying for one year of Satellite phone service…and the feeling that there is no turning back is definitely alive and well on SY Matelot.  It is very comforting to know that we are normal to be giving this major decision huge consideration.

Then there are those sailors and others, who delight in riveting us hopeful passagers with stories of yachting disasters, lists of every possible thing that can go wrong and their own horror stories no doubt amplified.  Great – but we soon develop a philosophical attitude to these helpful folk.  Ok they need to vent, as it is their own fears they are dealing with….

We know that for every disaster there are thousands of successful passages made and people completing one of their own life’s challenges, able to live out their lives enriched by their experience and the wonderful friends they have made along the way.  Their voyage changes them and changes their horizons forever.  We are very conscious that with good health and good luck we have an opportunity to do this.  It is all food for thought, - we never forget that saying:  “We only ever regret the things we have not done in our lives.”

For Pippy, thoughts are with her 93 year old mother in Australia, (full of encouragement, having been a great traveller herself) both of them living in the constant hope and prayer that a reunion will still be possible in 2015, but very aware this is pushing the boundaries.  

For both of us, it is time to be home again close to family and grandchildren.  Pippy finds some sage we have dried on board in the galley supplies and burns it, walking through the boat in a ceremony to bless our boat and all who sail in her, to keep us safe and healthy until our return to New Zealand.  Cap’n Buck raises his eyebrows!

Finances are stretched to the maximum now with the addition of a Hydrovane self steering unit and the necessity to purchase a new dinghy, one which will in effect be our vehicle to get to and from the shore in some fairly challenging conditions and places.  We have had a tough year with our property in NZ and ‘sick’ is the only word we can use to describe our financial accounts.  However our time in the EU expires on 20 August and we must move on, so cannot get bogged down by any of this right now.

We plan to leave Portugese waters around 12 August for our return to Gibraltar and final fit out.

Faro Culatra and Olhao, Water Taxis and Ferries

Faro, Olhao and Culatra Water Taxis

We need the services of a water taxi urgently but cannot find any information on line despite googling every combination we know of.  So here is all the information we have found which we have put in here to help out anyone else who has the same problem.

Water taxi services around these waterways are well established, the drivers very capable and have been able to get us on to our yacht in fairly rough weather conditions.  

Prices we have been charged in July 2014 are Euro 25 from Olhao to Culatra anchorage and Euro 10 from Culatra Jetty to our Yacht in the anchorage nearby.  Following are some phone numbers:

Olhau Water Taxis +351 962156922

Taxi Mar +351 964350877

Aqua Taxi:  +351 926377 or +351 918707405

David Taxi:  +351 935060532

Olhau Marina

Buying fresh almonds at Olhao Saturday market...

We have technical problems aboard SY Matelot and need a berth, so investigate this marina by going ashore on the ferry and walking the town.  At the marina the security guard directs us to the port building up the Fishing Harbour end.  It is the third building along facing the fishing harbour and has a large wooden dinghy on display in the foyer downstairs.  We go upstairs and speak to the very unhelpful man at the desk there who just says “No” “Full”.  We know the marina is not full as have seen clearly there is plenty of space.  We ask the Port Police if there is an emergency berth anywhere in the harbour.  They direct us back to the same place called IPTH.  They suggest we speak to Jose Gloria.  We go back again and are told this gentleman is “away until Monday”.  At this stage we give up.

Water Barge, Culatra Anchorage

Fishing Boat racing with ferry ....

While waiting for a water taxi one day, we see the water barge come in.  For boats needing water, phone Jorge Lopes +351 912621263.  Price Euro 5 / 100 Litres.

Ferries

There are regular ferries from Culatra to Olhao and Faro.  The ferries themselves are lovely, well maintained old girls which appear to have the occasional race with a fishing boat, adding to the on board entertainment.  Residents from the island load up the ferries with supplies on market day which is Saturday in Olhao.

Portugal Summer 2014

Portugal Summer 2014

SY Matelot at anchor at Isla de Culatra

The slightly chilly feeling in the air when we wake up each day reminds us we are no longer in the Med and we give thanks for the coolness allowing us to sleep soundly each night… that is when the wind is not doing its worst, which it actually has, coming in each afternoon with a howl and not settling down again until well after dark.  

We hear the Azores High is not in its usual place this year and the unseasonal wind could be due to this – there has been a dearth of lovely sundowners just lately with friends because of it.  Its not fun going out in the dinghy in a howling gale.

Several times we have caught the ferry into Olhao for shopping, phone recharges, medical appointments etc enjoying lovely weather there, only to arrive at the ferry for our return trip to the sight of white water and very fresh wind.  It has made for some interesting (freaky) landings (leaps) back on board SY Matelot from water taxis which we have been forced to use at Euro 10 per shore transfer, because our dinghy has been out of commission.  Surprisingly, although it is mid summer, our polar fleecies are never far from our reach.

 

Family on board at last!

June and July pass in a blur with lovely highlights as we have a surprise meet up in Lagos with family Nicki and Stu Weatherhead from Christchurch just prior to having Matt Catherine Elliot and Harper on board for a very quick 6 days, followed soon after in July by Emily Marc and two year old Faye from Paris.  SY Matelot will forever carry with her the sounds of children on board, laughter and good times…. We have a couple of disasters with Emily Marc and Faye on board but are thankful they are such good sports and soon we get going for a short cruise up the coast to Lagos.

The compact Algarve coast from the Guadiana River boundary between Spain and Portugal westwards to Lagos provides some of the most lovely cruising and easy short distances that we have had to date.  Soon we feel as though we are going ‘home’ when we anchor behind the breakwater in Portimao, or enjoy a day anchorage with lovely swimming close to the cliffs anywhere along this lovely coastline with its pristine golden sandy beaches and clean Atlantic waters.  The approach to Lagos marina becomes familiar also, with its festive tourist fare tents alongside the canal and old town in behind. 

Culatra Island becomes our base camp where we enjoy the company of John and Janine on NZ boat Orca Joss and also Clare and Tony on SY Hai Mei Gui, - Its been hard but someone has to join the many sundowners and guitar and singing sessions on board these two boats, so we volunteer for the job.  

The swimming on the Atlantic Ocean beach is second to none.  A ‘fresh’ dip in the clearest water over golden sand that we have enjoyed to date.  Not too salty and refreshingly chilly at around 20 deg C.  

At low tide clams are said to be found in abundance in the golden sands.

The grilled sardines or octopus with rice dishes of Culatra and Olhao are a treat and we are very lucky to taste local fare and hospitality on Culatra one day when a family kindly offer to do our boat laundry (loads of sheets and towels) for us and then invite us to taste their dinner - a large pot of boiled potatoes topped with chunks of manta ray (which have been marinated in salt and lemon juice) and heaps of thinly sliced garlic, then drizzled with a generous portion of olive oil.  The potatoes are drained just before they are cooked and the manta ray and other ingredients added, then the lid is put on the pot and it is all left to steam for 10-15 minutes before being eaten.  The combined flavours are heavenly…

Just about to squeeze under now....

Soon word comes of a ‘party’ happening up the Guadiana River with ‘music’ organised by the famous Paul and Hilary, so off we go up the Guadiana, three boats in convoy.  

Our first goal is to get over the bar at high tide which is the only option, then we anchor outside Marina Ayamonte in the brown river with its rushing current, departing the next morning to pass under the big bridge and ride the incoming tide 20NM

inland to the towns of Alcoutim on the Portugese side and San Luca close by on the Spanish side.

As we make our way up river the heat the humidity envelops us until we are in an oven filled with the sounds and flashes of golden oriels, kingfishers and other rare birds which inhabit the riverside environment.  

The party is great fun and our team acquit themselves very well.  At around 1400H each day the wind comes charging up the river like wild horses going into battle.  We are assailed by wind and current for several hours, then everything goes quiet again and cools down for the night, except for the current which stops briefly at the change of tide then carries on, bringing with it the constant sound of water and flotsam rushing and bumping past the hull.  Each day we clear the large clumps of bamboo which accumulate around the anchor chain.

Muddy Bottoms

On our last morning we make a rushed dinghy trip to the still sleeping San Luca for a quick walk around this pretty Spanish town, then up anchor to go alongside SY Hai Mei Gui for some water and a load of hand washing.  We clear the cardinal mark at the entrance to the little estuary north of Alcoutim and make for the pontoon, only to come to a sudden soft stop.  We are aground on an outgoing tide!  Matelot slews around in the current and goes over on her side with the river grabbing at her.  Cap’n Buck works the wheel and the rudder though and manages to get her free.  Phew that was a bit close.  Pippy has to have a little lie down once we are safely tied alongside HM.

Tuesday 15 July – “PumpadinghyDrama”

On the way back to Culatra the next day our bilge pump goes off and we find fresh water spilling into the bilge from our water pump.  With Emily Marc and 2 year old Faye due on board the next morning this is bad news.  All the time we have put aside to prepare the boat for them and shop for provisions, goes into trying to sort out the pump – without success.  

Cap'n Buck hams it up with Marc's hat...

We have to admit we are not very technical, but are lucky to have our friend John on board Orca Joss nearby, who diagnoses the problem.  The bolts holding the pump together have vibrated loose because the pump has not been bolted in when replaced in Palma less than a year ago. By this time we have our spare pump rewired and installed but it too is leaking – turns out it also needs a tighten up. Must be getting old like us! By Monday morning we have both pumps fixed and water on board again and the galley foot pump can take a rest.  Thanks John – we have both learnt a lot.

However Murphy is not finished with us.  On Friday while ferrying Emily and Faye to the boat from Culatra fishing harbour, the whole stern section with the outboard bolted to it, separates and starts to fall away from the pontoons of the inflatable dinghy.  We carefully make it back to the shore with water coming in over our feet, Cap'n Buck holding on to the outboard very tight and Pippy holding in the stern with one hand.   Some very kind cruisers give us all a ride back to Matelot, with our sad inflatable in tow.  Now we are stuck on board with no means of transport.  The water taxis make a good living from us over the next few days and we are immensely grateful to our friends on OJ and HM who go out of their way to help us with advice and rides ashore and back.  Thanks Maties and Missus!

This problem is not so easily fixed.  We think this is the end of our poor old dinghy so Cap’n Buck sets out to find a new one.  The Cruisers Network goes into action and soon we find out there are some good prices at Ayamonte.  Cap'n Buck combines a bit of shopping with a pleasure trip to Tavira and Ayamonte with Emily Marc and Faye (don’t think they enjoyed the dinghy buying part much), we have a ‘new’ dinghy sent to us at Lagos Marina and are fairly shocked at its appearance on arrival.  So it goes back.

Back in action - glued, patched and strapped together...

And... Cap’n Buck and Pippy set out to glue the poor old one back together again.  Heaps of dinghy glue, bits of webbing and Sikaflex later, we get it back in the water to keep us in transport to and from the shore until we can find a suitable replacement – soon we hope.