Hermits..... and then there is us!

The Photos:

The flags are being torn to shreds by the wind
That is Turkey in the distance!
Leuticia and Richard playing....
We get the sense that this might be a nice place to visit... in the summer...

For the past two days we have been closeted inside except for when we wrap up in our full wet weather gear over the top of every warm item of clothing we can find, and go for a bike ride. My woollen ice breaker leggings were lost in Istanbul and I am really missing them.

We are on a pontoon with at least four other boats with people living aboard. Do we see them? No not much and they don't see us either as we scuttle backwards and forwards going about our daily business. Leuticia and Speedy, the pontoon dogs are not around so much either and Speedy has a thick winter coat so he is hardly recognisable.

We get some huge soup bones from the butcher (he won't let us pay for them - they are only bones!) and make a massive pot of beef stock and lentils, then add all the fresh winter vegetables we can find, spiced up with garlic, cumin and paprika to make a thick and steamy soup. Leuticia who lives on the boat next door gets one of the bones to enjoy today as Speedy is not around. It vanishes in no time and she is soon back by our gangway with an expectant look.

Just when we think it is as cold as it is going to get, the wind comes up from the North, then the South then the West and now it is back in the North - and it howls non stop for days...It snows on the mountains of Kos close by, and the temperature goes down a little more.

Tonight Pippy feels we have eaten at home for too long,(or to put it another way it is Richard's turn to cook!). We take a small business card we have been given for a great Taverna and ride upwind through the darkened, gale whipped streets until we find it.

We discover we are in the last remaining genuine Taverna on Kos Island catering exclusively to locals, especially at this time of the year. They want to know what tourists are doing coming here in the middle of winter? "Antonis" is a small establishment and is full of well fed looking Greek fishermen (no women). By the time we get there the pots are piled up in the kitchen and the atmosphere is very smoky but totally friendly as we are welcomed and a table prepared for us.

One of the locals who speaks English (and Italian, Spanish, French and Greek) jumps up and translates for us as we order. Very soon the Greek salad (feta cheese, tomatoes and cucumber with lashings of olive oil), bread and wine comes out followed by a huge platter of various meats. We gorge outselves and wash it down with red wine until we can manage no more. The Greek coffee arrives and we pick it up but our friend who is translating for us says "No! You must wait for the 'dust' to settle then drink some water and then follow it with the coffee!" Mmmm it is good coffee and we linger over it.

Braving the elements again, we ride out into the howling night. Back on the waterfront and there is no need to pedal. Over by the fort at the harbour entrance we can see a large ferry ship trying to berth and we can hear the bow and stern thrusters working overtime to get it alongside in the gale. Freewheeling with the wind behind us under 'bare poles' back to the marina and the warmth of our cosy boat, we tumble down the companionway, hastily closing the hatch behind us but cannot close out the sound of the wind. It is still with us.

Back to Reality!.... in the Greek Islands!

We are wrapped up in our winter woollies and picking the hailstones up off the deck. It has been hailing, thundering and blowing for the last 2 days. We are very cosy but baby its cold outside!

Living the Dream... in New Zealand!

We sure do live the dream on our visit back to New Zealand for Christmas 2008 and January 2009.

On arrival on 23 December 2008 we are made very comfortable for a big sleep by Matt and Catherine in their recently completed award winning home in Grafton, Auckland. Getting to know Elliot, now almost a year old is a delicious experience which we both savour. She is a real character.

Christmas morning starts with us feasting on delicious breakfast a la Ann Louise, then opening our Xmas presents with all the family, especially including the best macaroons from Paris sent by Emily. This is followed by Xmas Dinner at Steve and Deb’s home in Remuera, who put on a great day with the turkey and all the trimmings, then Xmas pudding made by Margaret, dripping with brandy sauce, served outside in the sunshine. The Xmas Tree Game is the usual riot with everyone competing for the most popular goodies … the bottle of Jack Daniels and the Fireman’s calendar! We immerse ourselves in the wonderful catch-up we are having with everyone.

Baby Marco’s naming ceremony and New Year celebrations beckon and we drive south from Auckland to Lakes Taupo and Tarawera, gasping in wonder as we drive over the hill and are confronted by Lake Taupo stretching out below us and snow capped, majestic Mt Ruapehu in the distance sparkling blue and white in the sunshine.

At Lake Tarawera we are treated to native tuis hanging off tall flax flowers with their beaks deep in the nectar, kingfisher and morepawk calling, several walks in the bush where our impressions are of the sound of rushing tumbling water as we round a corner, the smell of damp bush, slippery nikau palm fronds, sunshine and rain. We have wonderful rides speeding across the lake in the boat and Richard bags a trout at last for Claudie and Pete. Soon after celebrating New Year with Terry and Diana and enjoying their wonderful hospitality, we are heading back to Auckland - past fields of corn and jersey cows swishing their tails, for a few days and time to catch up with Pippy’s mother who despite being very disabled has made it to NZ from her home in Australia for the third time this year. She sure sets an amazing example and Pippy bids her farewell with sadness until we meet again. We now head west of Auckland to the lush green rolling countryside and magnificent new home for people and horses, of Gabrielle and Richard our sailing mates from way back. Capn Buck has a go on the ride-on lawn mower and we can’t get him off it until all the lawns are finished. He has found a new vocation!

More special treats are in store as we go north to Christian Bay under the pohutukawa trees on the shores of the large stretch of water known as Kawau Bay…. So many of our memories linger here and it is a very special part of the world to us. We walk to the top of the hill overlooking Tawharanui Beach and campsite on the Takatu Peninsular and take in the spectacular views stretching across to Little Barrier Island. This really is New Zealand at its very best. Our time with Jonathan, Juliet, Pip, Greg, Debbie and extended family and friends is reminiscent of so many special gatherings we have enjoyed over the years.

Back to Auckland and we spend a few short days touching base with Rupe and Kristin in Freemans Bay, and Pippy's daughter Amee joins us for a fleeting visit from Australia, then before we know it, it is time for the most important event of all, the wedding of Sarah and Stephan. We move over to Greg and Debbie’s stylishly renovated villa in Ponsonby and go to the wedding together. The marriage of these two young people with such strong family bonds sets the stage for a joyous celebration of the hopes for the future and memories of the past of these two families. We are privileged to be there to share the day.

As if this is not enough we also find time, thanks to the driving/organising team of John and Pam, to catch up with the elusive sailors Noel and Kerrin on board Matrix and cruise the waters from Opua south to Tutukaka over 3 magical days of perfect sailing weather, wining, dining, swimming, rum induced reminiscing and laughter. We visit Whangaruru, Mimiwhangata and Whale Bay – all jewels of the north island north east coast.

Down to business as the last 2 weeks are dedicated to Richard doing on-the-water preparation with Mike of Gulf Wind Sailing Academy and subsequently being examined for his RYA/MCA Yacht Master Offshore Certificate. We both follow up with a 2-day outdoor first aid course. The use of Rupert’s High Octane and the support of all the ‘dumb’ crew helps Richard to pull this off with the exception of one last navigational exercise which is completed just two hours before we leave for the airport!

We say our goodbyes to all, especially Nicci and Anthony, Matt and Catherine, both expecting additions to their families in the next few months. Pippy has already seen her ‘little Martian’ first grand child on the screen in a very exciting and special moment.

We cannot put into words our thanks for the wonderful experience we have had in New Zealand, - the loan of the car by Lib and 87th birthday-boy Skip, to all the hospitality and special times we have shared with everyone.

We leave New Zealand (with difficulty as our E-ticket does not appear to be in the system) boarding the flight 10 minutes before we roll out for takeoff, en route to Kos Island, Greece where our boat is wintering over, via Hong Kong, Moscow, Istanbul and Marmaris … but that is another story!!!