Portugal Summer 2014
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| SY Matelot at anchor at Isla de Culatra |
The slightly chilly feeling in the air when we wake up each
day reminds us we are no longer in the Med and we give thanks for the coolness
allowing us to sleep soundly each night… that is when the wind is not doing its
worst, which it actually has, coming in each afternoon with a howl and not
settling down again until well after dark.
We hear the Azores High is not in its usual place this year and the
unseasonal wind could be due to this – there has
been a dearth of lovely sundowners just lately with friends because of it. Its not fun going out in the dinghy in a howling gale.
Several times we have caught the ferry into
Olhao for shopping, phone recharges, medical appointments etc enjoying lovely weather
there, only to arrive at the ferry for our return trip to the sight of white
water and very fresh wind. It has made
for some interesting (freaky) landings (leaps) back on board SY Matelot from water taxis which
we have been forced to use at Euro 10 per shore transfer, because our dinghy
has been out of commission. Surprisingly,
although it is mid summer, our polar fleecies are never far from our reach.
Family on board at last!
June and July pass in a blur with lovely highlights as we
have a surprise meet up in Lagos with family Nicki and Stu Weatherhead from
Christchurch just prior to having Matt Catherine Elliot and Harper on board for
a very quick 6 days, followed soon after in July by Emily Marc and two year old
Faye from Paris. SY Matelot will forever
carry with her the sounds of children on board, laughter and good times…. We
have a couple of disasters with Emily Marc and Faye on board but are thankful
they are such good sports and soon we get going for a short cruise up the coast
to Lagos.
The compact Algarve coast from the Guadiana River boundary
between Spain and Portugal westwards to Lagos provides some of the most lovely
cruising and easy short distances that we have had to date. Soon we feel as though we are going ‘home’
when we anchor behind the breakwater in Portimao, or enjoy a day anchorage with
lovely swimming close to the cliffs anywhere along this lovely coastline with
its pristine golden sandy beaches and clean Atlantic waters. The approach to Lagos marina becomes familiar
also, with its festive tourist fare tents alongside the canal and old town in
behind.
Culatra Island becomes our base camp where we enjoy
the company of John and Janine on NZ boat Orca Joss and also Clare and Tony on
SY Hai Mei Gui, - Its been hard but someone has to join the many sundowners and
guitar and singing sessions on board these two boats, so we volunteer for the
job.
The swimming on the Atlantic Ocean
beach is second to none. A ‘fresh’ dip
in the clearest water over golden sand that we have enjoyed to date. Not too salty and refreshingly chilly at
around 20 deg C.
At low tide clams are
said to be found in abundance in the golden sands.
The grilled sardines or octopus with rice dishes of Culatra and Olhao are a treat and we are very lucky to taste local fare and hospitality on Culatra one day when a family kindly offer to do our boat laundry (loads of sheets and towels) for us and then invite us to taste their dinner - a large pot of boiled potatoes topped with chunks of manta ray (which have been marinated in salt and lemon juice) and heaps of thinly sliced garlic, then drizzled with a generous portion of olive oil. The potatoes are drained just before they are cooked and the manta ray and other ingredients added, then the lid is put on the pot and it is all left to steam for 10-15 minutes before being eaten. The combined flavours are heavenly…
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| Just about to squeeze under now.... |
Soon word comes of a ‘party’ happening up the Guadiana River
with ‘music’ organised by the famous Paul and Hilary, so off we go up the
Guadiana, three boats in convoy.
Our
first goal is to get over the bar at high tide which is the only option, then
we anchor outside Marina Ayamonte in the brown river with its rushing current,
departing the next morning to pass under the big bridge and ride the incoming
tide 20NM
As we make our way up river the heat the humidity envelops us
until we are in an oven filled with the sounds and flashes of golden oriels,
kingfishers and other rare birds which inhabit the riverside environment.
The party is great fun and our team
acquit themselves very well. At around
1400H each day the wind comes charging up the river like wild horses going into
battle. We are assailed by wind and
current for several hours, then everything goes quiet again and cools down for
the night, except for the current which stops briefly at the change of tide
then carries on, bringing with it the constant sound of water and flotsam
rushing and bumping past the hull. Each
day we clear the large clumps of bamboo which accumulate around the anchor
chain.
Muddy Bottoms
On our last morning we make a rushed dinghy trip to the
still sleeping San Luca for a quick walk around this pretty Spanish town, then
up anchor to go alongside SY Hai Mei Gui for some water and a load of hand
washing. We clear the cardinal mark at
the entrance to the little estuary north of Alcoutim and make for the pontoon,
only to come to a sudden soft stop. We
are aground on an outgoing tide! Matelot
slews around in the current and goes over on her side with the river grabbing
at her. Cap’n Buck works the wheel and
the rudder though and manages to get her free.
Phew that was a bit close. Pippy
has to have a little lie down once we are safely tied alongside HM.
Tuesday 15 July – “PumpadinghyDrama”
On the way back to Culatra the next day our bilge pump goes
off and we find fresh water spilling into the bilge from our water pump. With Emily Marc and 2 year old Faye due on
board the next morning this is bad news.
All the time we have put aside to prepare the boat for them and shop for
provisions, goes into trying to sort out the pump – without success.  |
| Cap'n Buck hams it up with Marc's hat... |
We have to admit we are not very technical,
but are lucky to have our friend John on board Orca Joss nearby, who diagnoses
the problem. The bolts holding the pump
together have vibrated loose because the pump has not been bolted in when
replaced in Palma less than a year ago. By this time we have our spare pump
rewired and installed but it too is leaking – turns out it also needs a tighten
up. Must be getting old like us! By Monday morning we have both pumps fixed and
water on board again and the galley foot pump can take a rest. Thanks John – we have both learnt a lot.
However Murphy is not finished with us. On Friday while ferrying Emily and Faye to
the boat from Culatra fishing harbour, the whole stern section with the
outboard bolted to it, separates and starts to fall away from the pontoons of
the inflatable dinghy. We carefully make
it back to the shore with water coming in over our feet, Cap'n Buck holding on to the outboard very tight and Pippy holding in
the stern with one hand. Some very kind
cruisers give us all a ride back to Matelot, with our sad inflatable in
tow. Now we are stuck on board with no
means of transport. The water taxis make
a good living from us over the next few days and we are immensely grateful to
our friends on OJ and HM who go out of their way to help us with advice and
rides ashore and back. Thanks Maties and
Missus!
This problem is not so easily fixed. We think this is the end of our poor old
dinghy so Cap’n Buck sets out to find a new one. The Cruisers Network goes into action and
soon we find out there are some good prices at Ayamonte. Cap'n Buck combines a bit of shopping with a pleasure trip to Tavira
and Ayamonte with Emily Marc and Faye (don’t think they enjoyed the dinghy
buying part much), we have a ‘new’ dinghy sent to us at Lagos Marina and are
fairly shocked at its appearance on arrival. So it goes back.
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| Back in action - glued, patched and strapped together... |
And... Cap’n Buck and Pippy set out to glue the poor old one back together
again. Heaps of dinghy glue, bits of webbing and Sikaflex later, we get it back in the water to keep us in transport to
and from the shore until we can find a suitable replacement – soon we hope.
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