Remote and Beautiful

The fish at the Arkhangelos Islands are the most plentiful and curious of all...





Thursday 30 July 2009

We have stocked the boat up in Lakki this morning with some more provisions for the next part of our cruise to the remote islands of Lipso, Marathos and Arki.

The Meltemi is still blowing and we have on-the-wind sail of 35 knots (apparent) on our 16 NM passage from Lakki Harbour to the anchorage of Lera Lipso on the southern end of Lipso. We get a bit wet from the odd wave that washes over the boat and Pippy has to have a complete change of clothes. Surprisingly, it is quite cold when one’s clothes are wet through! It is an exhilarating ride, which we all enjoy, taking 3 or 4 tacks to clear the northern end of Leros and then lay across to Lipso. Our reward is to arrive in a beautiful bay on the southern end, pick up a secure buoy and go ashore to enjoy a cold beer and some mezze in the taverna on the sandy beach.

The taverna ashore is lovely with umbrellas and lanterns which come on as we watch the sun go down and the light fades.

There are lots of Italian holiday-makers on the island and we don’t wonder why. It is a very pretty setting. The next day we walk across the island to the small and picturesque port of Lipso. Along the way Pippa M gets talking in Italian over the fence to an Italian couple who have made their home here. We are soon invited in for a quick taste of the local wine, which we have asked about and are hoping to buy some supplies of. They are charming and kind, however later on we are not successful in purchasing any wine. We are told in the town that there is not enough to give away at the local festivals they hold during the summer, so they cannot sell us any!

Saturday 1 August

The best is yet to come as we leave Lipso Island today, arriving in the truly lovely bay of Marathos near to Nisos Arki around early afternoon, where we again pick up a mooring buoy. This is great - no worries about the anchor dragging tonight. We eat a massive lunch of leftover moussaka, salads and fresh breads on board Matelot and enjoy a small nap/read before taking a walk on this tiny island to the old stone village we can see near to the church at the top of the hill overlooking the bay. It is fascinating and in original – tumble down condition. We discover later it dates back to Byzantium times when it was used as a ‘food store-room’ by pilgrims travelling through these parts.

The old village on top of the hill has panoramic views in all directions...

We still find we have the appetite to enjoy cold beers and starters ashore later in the day. The taverna has a lush green garden - very lovely and the people are hospitable and gracious. We notice that most of the other customers are enjoying an elaborate looking cocktail, so we order the same. Fortunately Richard thinks to ask ‘how much’ before we buy. We are shocked to hear it is Euro 20!! Woops, we will have beer instead thanks plus maybe some starters! The Greek Salad is tossed in some delicious croutons and the local bread is rich and brown. We manage to purchase some for the boat.

Some of the other boats in the bay party on into the small hours of the morning, but the Matelot crew turn in around midnight after a few games of Take Two - Jess is the undisputed champion. We decide this bay could well resemble similar spots in the Bay of Islands in NZ. It is truly lovely.

Cap'n Buck's cut off shirt is a real fashion statement..

We are now in exploring mode and spend the day taking some of the lovely inlets around Arki Island, stopping for a totally indulgent gastronomic treat at Port Augusta. It is hot and still and we have only stopped for a quick refreshing drink and to buy some yoghurt, but when we see the amazing food being dished out to other customers, we cave in and order lunch. Matelot is tied stern-to on the "town" quay a few meters away and we tuck in to spinach pie, pork chops, grilled kalamari, octopus, tzaziki, fresh breads, Greek salad piled with fresh tomatoes, red onions, olives and local feta cheese.


We are fascinated to see some local people at a table near to us wading through a pile of "kina" called sea urchins here, olive oil and fresh bread. Two hours later we stumble back to Matelot and throw the lines, heading out to a nice anchorage where we can swim and sleep it off.


It is deliciously cool inside the taverna....Matelot's mast is just visible through the plant.

Unfortunately we find our anchor will not set in our choice of places to stop, and so we end up back in the lovely bay of Marathi for our last night in this part of the Greek Islands, tied to the same buoy.

Monday 2 August

Today we are to begin to head south as Pip and Jess must leave us on Wednesday. Our anchorage tonight is on the southern end of the Arkhangelos Islands which lie off the northern end of Leros. We have this bay almost completely to ourselves until two other yachts arrive much later in the evening. The island is deserted except for a herd of goats, all with bells on. The feeding boat arrives and we watch them run to meet the boat and get their daily rations amidst a cacophony of bell ringing. The fish in this bay are amazingly tame and swim around us as we lay about in the tepid water. The night is completely calm... one of the only times we have experienced this. Normally there is wind howling at some point during the night! We awake to a mirror calm sea and the knowledge that today we sail to Pserimos for our last night together.

Deck sleeping...

Not to worry, we have a wonderful day motoring for the first hour and then sailing for most of the remainder of the 25 miles. We are going downhill, so have eased sheets and a level deck. We make the most of it and play several rounds of Take Two on the cockpit table... Jess is still the champion, while Matelot slips easily downhill in the hot sun. Thank goodness for the bimini.

Pserimos is still the same. We nose in close to the end of the bay and drop anchor for a late swim and our last meal on board. True to form the wind comes up and howls its best for around one hour, then gives up to allow for another calm anchorage. As we make our way in to Kos Marina the next morning, the heat comes out to meet us and we realise how lucky we have been to escape it. Tomas comes out to meet us and enjoys meeting Pip and Jess. Before we know it we are walking with them towards their ferry and saying our goodbyes.

Another adventure on board Matelot draws to a close. Thanks Pip and Jess.. it has been lovely to have you on board.

Key words and expressions from this trip :

"Come on Richard!"
Pizzleys and Growlers(you had to be there!)

Recipes and food we ate:

Mancakes: Pancakes wrapped in muesli topped with Greek yoghurt and honey
Moussaka: Matelot's special version with rich layers of roasted eggplant, meat sauce, bechamel and potatoes!
Spicy Sausage Pasta: With dried wild oregano and lots of added spices, garlic and chilli
Marmacot Jam: The left over apricot jam juice minus the fruit, combined with marmalade made on board which was a little too stiff!
Finger jam: Foraged wild purple figs with lots of fresh ginger coooked up with some lemon juice and sugar. Served on fresh brown bread.
Pork Stir Fry with red cabbage: Wonderful Turkish red cabbage combined with minced pork, red onion, Greggs 5 Spice (thanks Karen!) and lots of garlic and chilli. We cooked the rice wiith lemon tree leaves foraged on the side of the road in Lakki Harbour...



Delicious!!!