SY Matelot in Morocco

Matelot in Bouregreg Marina

We awake to look around us at the ancient tower opposite Bouregreg Marina on the Rabat side of the river - placed strategically between the river front, the ancient Souk, and the modern tramway/people mover which is reminiscent of the efficiency of Istanbul. 

Walking in the Souk near the marina.

With no local currency we cannot do much so explore into the Souk to find a money machine, (70 MD = 7 Euro approx.) then ride up to Sale central to buy a local sim card and some WIFI from Maroc Telecom.

The graveyard overlooking Harbour entrance.

Not sure how we fit it in, but we get some shopping done at the Souk and have a good look around the Sale side.

 

By the next morning we have backpacks organised and are off the boat early for a train to Marrakech.  It is so easy to ride the tram to the central Gare du Rabat and hop on a fast train, in no time we are well on our way. 

About one hour out from Marrakech we are joined in our compartment by a very chatty man who joins in the interesting conversation we are having with a local young woman who is telling us what the top sites are in the Marrakech region.  

Having been warned about touts, Pippy’s antennae goes up when he asks if we have accommodation booked.  “Yes thank you” is the answer.  A while later he asks Richard the same question “No we don’t” is the answer this time as Pippy inwardly groans.  Before we know it we are stitched up with accommodation and tours.   However Hasan does make our arrival in Marrakech much easier as we are guided promptly into a taxi and taken to a very nice and inexpensive Riad (tucked away behind many right and left turns in a narrow alley, which turns out to be 400 MD per night per room including breakfast).  We talk about our travel plans and money... over mint tea.

Jemaa El Fna, the main square

We plan a day tour of Marrakech for the next morning and an exploration of the surrounding countryside, camel riding and sleeping in the desert, then on to Fez over the next few days. 


We have told our new ‘friend’ Abdul that we want to have the evening to ourselves to explore, so off we go, walking along the interesting dusty laneways of Marrakech in the failing light.   

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This character is our waiter and has pulled us in off the street.

We have decided we are going to eat in the square on advice from that very nice young woman on the train, and head for the stall (Hassan Rguigu) she has recommended. 

There are many local people eating here and the only thing we don’t touch is the shared water cup, instead buying bottled water.  

The food is tasty, good value and good quality dished up with plenty of smoke from the open fire.

Of all the places we visit in Marrakech the next day, it is the Majorelle Gardens Yves St Laurent's Morocco home, which we love the most.  The sense of peace and harmony in these gardens makes us want to stay longer.  

Soon after lunch, we are joined by more sailing friends from Rabat (Time Bandit and Purrfect) and now have a group of 7 so the price for all of our planned travel comes down considerably.  

In a blur we take in the Saadian Tombs and Medersa Ben Youssef, reminiscent of the Alhambra in Grenada, purchase our Argan Oil and say a very firm ‘no’ to the carpet seller before again enjoying a meal this time in a restaurant overlooking the square. 

By now we are feeling much more comfortable with Abdul who has spent the day with us touring Marrakech and provided a good car and driver for the experience.  Our onward journey to Fez via the High Atlas Mountains, Dades Gorge then on to the desert begins tomorrow at 0800H.  Our faith is tested a little when our driver is late the next morning but then arrives and we are on our way in a slightly dodgy vehicle.  We discover we cannot open the back door from the inside and hope like mad that we don’t have to in an emergency.  

From now on we take thousands of photographs and cannot possibly share all that happens.  Pippy gets caught out taking a photo of a policeman at a road block and gets a little telling off.

The Unesco World Heritage site of Ait Ben Haddou is stunning.

Many goods are on offer but we don't have room on board which is perhaps a good thing!

A film set for a movie is being established at the top so we watch the construction for a while.  

Our guide assures us that the site will be returned to original immediately after the film is finished and nothing will be damaged.

This is the place where films have been made for many years, including Gladiator and Lawrence of Arabia.

Many miles later, and well after darkness falls, we are delivered to our hotel in the Dades Gorge. The next morning we walk for more than an hour along the fertile riverside, where fruit and vegetables grow in abundace.  Frequent glimpses through the green bushes show local women doing their laundry on the riverside or washing carpets.  We soon realise it is not ok to take photographs without permission first.  We stop at the end for a visit to the showroom of the carpet makers – a co-operative of local women – and are shown some of the loveliest Berber carpets ever – very tempting but none of us is able to purchase for our small spaces on board yachts so we continue onwards.  Tonight we will be sleeping in the desert.

The highlight of this day is to be the gastro-nomic Moroccan Tagene meal we enjoy at the town of Tingdid in the unassuming looking Panorama Café, just before we get to the desert.  Wow what food – we devour it savouring the wonderful spices and fresh ingredients.  We have not had anything as good for a long time and certainly not since. Sorry it all vanished too quickly. Only the grapes made it to a photo shoot

 

Genuine Berber clothing....

 The highlight of the night is yet to come.

Now we are closing on the desert having been driven for hours, but first we must stop and buy some genuine Berber clothing for the participants of a Rally in our group.  They have a fancy dress party organised.

By the time we have swapped ourselves into 4 wheel drive vehicles, then met up with our camels, sunset is rapidly approaching.

Up we are heaved (via a jerk forwards as it raises its hind legs, almost sending us onto our face in the sand in front of the camel, then a larger jerk backwards as it gets up onto all four legs) onto our camels and are plodding along in a line into the sand dunes before we know it, riding for quite a while before stopping to watch the sun fade and the contours of the dunes turn into sharp contrasting angles before the darkness almost fills in. 

On we go to our campsite with the four leading camels slightly ahead, sometimes stumbling on the downhill inclines… tending to slip in the sand.  We cling on like limpits and lean right back.  Our three climb the crest of a hill where we see our tents spread out below us, but alarmingly one of our party lying in a crumpled heap on the ground and her husband leaping from his camel (it’s a long way to jump) and running towards her, with the camel driver also in attendance. 

The four camels, now free to do what they want, head for the desert at a trot with two more of our party still as passengers.  Chaos reigns and the injured woman, Anne is lying very still.  We have to be calm and allow ourselves to be led past the scene and disembarked from the camel backs close to the tents. 

It seems that one camel has bitten the one in front, then the one in front has jerked and stumbled, throwing Anne to the ground where she has landed on her back after getting caught up in the lead rope and flipped over backwards.  She is in a lot of pain and we are miles from help.  She is assisted to a mattress in the middle of the campsite.  It is now we find out the only first aid we have available is what we have in our own bags.  A few anti-inflammatories and our new crew member Amanda who has medical training in her job as a Sonographer.  Amanda does a great job supervising what assistance we can lend to make Anne as comfortable as possible, assuring her that nothing appears to be broken.  However the pain makes it impossible for her to move at all. There is minimal phone signal.  A message goes out for help but it will be morning before Anne can be taken out.   The camel drivers are very worried they are going to lose their jobs because of the accident, but it is not their fault. 

Soon one of them suggests he try some Berber medicine to relieve the pain.  This consists

of taking one of the glasses we have just been drinking mint tea from, lighting a piece of paper inside it and quickly turning it over and clamping it on to Anne’s back where it instantly stops burning and creates a suction effect as it cools. It does not appear to burn as it is applied. 

Carpets at Dades Gorge Womens' Co-op

Our tagine dinner is cooking in one of the tents and our mattresses await on the ground.  The night stretches ahead of us.  Some of the spicy oily surface from the tagine is turned into a massage after the Berber treatment has been applied for about an hour.  Amazingly and thankfully, Anne’s pain is relieved somewhat and the heat from the spices appears to have a very soothing effect.  We all relax a little and eat a late but welcome dinner in one of the tents.  She and her husband sleep outside under the stars as is too uncomfortable to be moved.  None of us sleep much this night interspersed by frequent visits into the desert for nature stops. The stars seem so close and the air is warm and windless. We are assured there are no creepy crawlies around. By morning Anne is feeling a bit better and is able to move so that the quad bike which arrives before sunrise is able to transport her back to the base hotel where she rests again, waiting for the rest of us to arrive on camel-back a couple of hours later. 

It is a very long and picturesque day today as we are driving all the way to Fez through the lower Atlas mountains stopping briefly at a pretty Alpen village where the King of Morocco has one of his homes. Amanda Richard and I stay overnight in Fez and take a whistle stop tour.  The others go onwards back to Rabat.  We don’t know how our driver does it, but he will drive back to Marrakech after dropping them off.  We are in the car and driving by around 1030H and arrive in Fez around 2100H.

Passage to Rabat, Morocco

Depart Gibraltar 20 Sept for anchorage Algeciras close to Gibraltar

Depart Algeciras 21 Sept for Rabat

 

We now have our third crew member on board, Amanda Wilson from Hawkes Bay.  Amanda is an experienced sailor and skipper of her own 12m yacht and is sailing with us to get some off shore experience as it is something she has always wanted to do. We are thrilled to have Amanda on board and on our best behaviour - for a while anyway.

Soon after Amanda's arrival we move the boat over to La Linea Marina, now called Alcaidesa, and enjoy some music on board Hob Nob with Doug and Shanna.

We arrive in Rabat just after midday 22 Sept after an amazing overnight sail, but very intense at times.

After a forecast of no wind, we pick up an easterly wind at Tarifa at the western end of the Gib Straights just as daylight is filling in.  We slice across to the north western tip of Africa and past it to see the coastline stretching out to the south off to port.

Now for a while we have to motor - 3 hours in total - before a fresh south west fills in and pulls us on long tacks southwards. 

We organise ourselves into 3 hourly overnight watches, eat a dinner of roast chicken and vegetables then the night moves on.   We have to tack more frequently to keep the sails filled in the light south westerly, sometimes slipping along nicely sometimes struggling and engine assisted.   At some stage we sight a large purple weather cell behind us on the radar and think we might be getting a wind change.  Sure enough within half an hour wind fills in from the north-west and we are able to ease the sails, step up the speed and touch more than 7 knots at times.

 

It is a very dark night and we are two on deck at all times, revolving according to our watch pattern.  Fishing nets and other navigational hazards make for an intense concentrated time regardless of how close or far we are from the shore, sometimes 6 NM, sometimes 20.  Lights – tiny blinking ones in lines (they are fishing nets on the surface) and larger ones, sometimes stationary and sometimes moving, keep us fully occupied. The massive and ugly shrimp boat which tries to run us down is the worst.  Around 0415H Amanda and Pippy spot it from 12 miles away on our bow and track it on radar coming towards us.  Several times we change course to port to avoid it, and several times it changes course too to that it is always there, right in our path.  Cap’n Buck is dragged out of bed, having only just gone off watch at 0400H.  The shrimper is approx a mile away and has now been on our starboard side for a little time, when we spot a port light and realise it has this time changed to a cross-bows course towards us.  We know it is probably dragging nets – or something – so we must pass it's bow.  Soon it is half a mile away – our engine is on and we are accelerating at high revs.  All our deck lights are on too so that we are lit up like a Christmas tree.  Pippy is calling on the VHF repeatedly for them to advise their intentions.  No reply.  No AIS signal either.  By the time we pass under their bows they are a quarter of a mile away and coming fast.  We see the whole structure bearing down on our starboard side – massive steel gantries out each side which look like a Meccano construction, the bow crouching over the water like a giant mantis from a sci-fi movie, quite scary as we don’t actually know what it's purpose is and have never seen anything like it before.  Once we are past and away the shrimper changes course again away from us and continues on its way.

Moroccan Flag goes up on arrival.

We cannot believe that the manoeuvres this boat has made is to protect nets since it has literally hunted us down.  Two more sailing boats report similar incidents in this region over the next few days.  It is not until we see these reports that we realise what the offending boat was.

This wind carries us until around 0700H when the engine has to go on.  It has been an exhilarating and at times scary passage. 

We are a ragged little bunch on arrival into Rabat, having had very little sleep overnight. 

The Port Pilot meets us promptly despite us not being able to make out their transmission on VHF.  We follow the pilot on a very picturesque journey upstream to the marina on the Sale side.  

Once over the bar and past the rocky headland, we see massive ancient Kasbah walls on each side of the river towering over the foreground of a lovely sandy beach and many brightly painted small wooden fishing boats and their dark skinned inhabitants, which might have come from a Biblical scene. 

Customs give us a good look over on arrival and we are soon in our berth, where rather than dashing out and exploring, we fade quickly into blissful dreamless sleeps, fully clothed and asleep wherever it finds us, spread-eagled and relaxed.

Where did August go?

Last minute happy times are enjoyed in Culatra with friends Clare and Tony and John and Janine.  We have had many happy evenings on board Orca Joss (NZ) and Hai Mei Gui, playing guitars and singing along...sort of!

We all take a fast water taxi one evening ...to Faro.

Its a real thrill speeding across the flat waters of Culatra, hitting a sand bank on the way .... not planned - but after coming to a sudden stop we are soon on our way again.

Its the Faro Food and Music Festival is on and we are having a night out... yeah!

After one lovely last evening on board Matelot we check the weather forecast and decide we are departing in the morning for Gibraltar.

Tuesday 12 August

Culatra to Cadiz

82.6 NM

Late out of bed … again!  Our 6am departure from Culatra turns into 0700H as we hurtle out through the heads with the outgoing spring tide, bumping our way over the whirlpools and random waves thrown up by the current.  No wind at all, despite having lain awake most of the night listening to the whine of the wind coming from the north and assuming it would still be there in the morning.

We are sad to leave but not too badly so, as the smell of the bare mudflats or whatever it is on the outgoing tide is nothing to be happy about and has wafted into our for’ard berth for some time through the partially open hatch, particularly smelly.  This place is a place of teaming life – fish, shellfish, birds everywhere (plenty of food for them), some of them quite rare.  I guess the smell is the price you pay for ‘life’ or is it what comes out of the pipe by the ferry wharf at Olhao?  We will never know and it will not worry us either. 

Never mind, the current seems to help us along rather well and so does the engine, until with 30 miles still to go the wind comes in and the sailing is just lovely – on the beam around 12-15 knots all afternoon until our arrival Cadiz 1900H, dropping anchor at 1945H.

There is nothing quite like coming back into a familiar anchorage of a town you have loved, in gorgeous weather, the noise of the wind, then the engine and then …. silence… just the lapping of the water against the hull, a cold beer and the distant sounds of the bridge construction which has made considerable progress since we were last here – ages ago…no wait – two months ago.

Our watches are put forward one hour and oh no – it is already 2130H and we have not had dinner.  Back to the galley Pippy.

Wed 13 August

Cadiz to Gibraltar

82 NM

We depart our peaceful anchorage under the bridge construction at 0700H on a strong ebb tide.  Not far around the corner we find ourselves in a 20 knot NW breeze and strong short swell as the wind pushes against the outgoing tide.  Conditions are challenging for the first hour as we clear the harbour under engine and reefed genoa.  Pippy is busy on the helm slightly anxious that we got going so quickly she did not check the hatches properly….just a niggling worry but Richard has a quick glance down below and sees no problem there.  Matelot buries her nose a few times and we have waves over the bow – a nice clean-up for the muddy anchor and chain.

Unfortunately some time later we discover that our for’ard hatch is closed, but on the first setting – slightly cracked open.  Our bedding - including mattresses - is saturated in salt water.  We get the watermaker going and do the washing on the way, mattress covers as well and its soon all dry and clean in the sunshine.  We also have a nice shower ourselves in the cockpit after clearing Trafalgar Reef.

The sea state from now on is confused to say the least by the pressure of massive current from the Straights.  To use Cap’n Buck’s words from the log:  There are some pretty fearsome stand-ups near the Trafalgar and Tarifa shoals and at times we are doing over 8 knots over the ground feeling like we are sailing down rapids.

Our intended destination today is Barbate, but we are going so well we forge on into the Straights of Gibraltar around 1830H, carried onwards by a strong current under us and light breezes until we round the corner into Gib Harbour and suddenly we are sailing in 40 Knots under reefed genoa making 10 knots easily towards Ocean Village and our berth in Marina Bay.  Unlike last November when we visited here, the Cruise ship hotel is well in place now and the marina area is very interesting as we berth right beside it, a day ahead of schedule.

  

Soon we are in full work mode as the parcelled up Hydrovane arrives and so doesTed to install it, - now christened HydroKeith by Greg Cook.  The boat is a hive of activity - and mess for the next few days.

Then after a bit of a struggle getting it off Spanish Customs, our new dinghy (Matelittle) arrives from the UK and Richard writes up his list of about 30 jobs to be done (by him) before we depart here. Matelot gets a new galley tap, the lights up the mast are rewired with the help of our lovely neighbours on both sides, Arthur and Jackie and Jo and Stefan – assisted of course by Bowline the Dog.  

 What a cute boy he is – Bowline that is!  

The new arrival is pumped up and tried out - bewdy - and the old Lodestar goes off to the trash, not without a thank you from us both as she has done us great service, apart from nearly tipping Emily and Faye into the sea.

Pippy volunteers to make dinghy chaps to keep our new ‘motor transport’ in good nick while we cross the Atlantic and Pacific in the year or so ahead.  She wishes she hadn’t, but is deeply into it now with the sewing machine smokin’ in the cockpit.

The template is made - 2 days work, the cutting out is done - another 2 days and now the sewing has begun.

Gibraltar is in full party mode and we are treated to the sounds of the Gibraltar Music Festival http://gibraltarmusicfestival.eu/ with an unbelievable lineup of artists, playing right beside the marina last night 6 Sept.

Pippy is working on Matelittle and hears a ‘big voice’ coming from the ship hotel, glances up and sees the whole lineup of ‘Script’ on the balcony mucking around exercising their vocal chords and laughing. 

That is a bit of a thrill - not to mention the atmosphere here last night.  Pretty special with an almost full moon appearing over the Rock.

Now we are expecting Amanda Wilson, our additional crew member to arrive on board on Wednesday and sail on down to Rabat with us.  That will be fun – and we hope for a weather window soon!  Not looking great for a few days yet.

Okay family and friends. That’s all from Matelot for now.  Sending you all hugs and kisses.

xxxCap’n Buck and Pippy 

Homeward Bound...

Decision Made – We are on our way home

It is decision time on board SY Matelot.  Well placed for our planned Atlantic Crossing this year, we have been having many conflicting thoughts about leaving European waters - areas that feel safe and familiar.  We are encouraged by these wise and encouraging words from a sailing friend who has almost completed a circumnavigation from Australia.  We hope to see them in New Zealand in 2015.  

“I remember reading an article about sailing and the fear that grips a competent sailor before they raise the anchor. The gist was that only an incompetent sailor would be nonchalant about heading off given the things that can go wrong, even on a short trip. On top of all the usual stuff like worrying about engine failure and the sails blowing out, you will also have the 'will I be well enough' worry given the challenges Cap’n Buck has faced in the last year.

I found leaving Australia and then Asia hard. It felt like there was no chance of turning back. I remember wanting to hang onto the Canaries and my dongle with internet connection, talking to my parents on skype until we sailed out of range.  It is tough knowing that you are moving away from the known. When we got through the Panama Canal I expected to feel relief that we'd come through unscathed. But that night I realised that the reason I couldn't hear the fat lady singing was that 'it wasn't over yet' and I might not feel like it was over till we reached New Zealand. ….”

These comments really sum up our thoughts right now as we make our final decisions committing to the passage back to New Zealand, ie, purchasing medical insurance for another year, ordering the Hydrovane to pick up in Gibraltar…  paying for one year of Satellite phone service…and the feeling that there is no turning back is definitely alive and well on SY Matelot.  It is very comforting to know that we are normal to be giving this major decision huge consideration.

Then there are those sailors and others, who delight in riveting us hopeful passagers with stories of yachting disasters, lists of every possible thing that can go wrong and their own horror stories no doubt amplified.  Great – but we soon develop a philosophical attitude to these helpful folk.  Ok they need to vent, as it is their own fears they are dealing with….

We know that for every disaster there are thousands of successful passages made and people completing one of their own life’s challenges, able to live out their lives enriched by their experience and the wonderful friends they have made along the way.  Their voyage changes them and changes their horizons forever.  We are very conscious that with good health and good luck we have an opportunity to do this.  It is all food for thought, - we never forget that saying:  “We only ever regret the things we have not done in our lives.”

For Pippy, thoughts are with her 93 year old mother in Australia, (full of encouragement, having been a great traveller herself) both of them living in the constant hope and prayer that a reunion will still be possible in 2015, but very aware this is pushing the boundaries.  

For both of us, it is time to be home again close to family and grandchildren.  Pippy finds some sage we have dried on board in the galley supplies and burns it, walking through the boat in a ceremony to bless our boat and all who sail in her, to keep us safe and healthy until our return to New Zealand.  Cap’n Buck raises his eyebrows!

Finances are stretched to the maximum now with the addition of a Hydrovane self steering unit and the necessity to purchase a new dinghy, one which will in effect be our vehicle to get to and from the shore in some fairly challenging conditions and places.  We have had a tough year with our property in NZ and ‘sick’ is the only word we can use to describe our financial accounts.  However our time in the EU expires on 20 August and we must move on, so cannot get bogged down by any of this right now.

We plan to leave Portugese waters around 12 August for our return to Gibraltar and final fit out.

Faro Culatra and Olhao, Water Taxis and Ferries

Faro, Olhao and Culatra Water Taxis

We need the services of a water taxi urgently but cannot find any information on line despite googling every combination we know of.  So here is all the information we have found which we have put in here to help out anyone else who has the same problem.

Water taxi services around these waterways are well established, the drivers very capable and have been able to get us on to our yacht in fairly rough weather conditions.  

Prices we have been charged in July 2014 are Euro 25 from Olhao to Culatra anchorage and Euro 10 from Culatra Jetty to our Yacht in the anchorage nearby.  Following are some phone numbers:

Olhau Water Taxis +351 962156922

Taxi Mar +351 964350877

Aqua Taxi:  +351 926377 or +351 918707405

David Taxi:  +351 935060532

Olhau Marina

Buying fresh almonds at Olhao Saturday market...

We have technical problems aboard SY Matelot and need a berth, so investigate this marina by going ashore on the ferry and walking the town.  At the marina the security guard directs us to the port building up the Fishing Harbour end.  It is the third building along facing the fishing harbour and has a large wooden dinghy on display in the foyer downstairs.  We go upstairs and speak to the very unhelpful man at the desk there who just says “No” “Full”.  We know the marina is not full as have seen clearly there is plenty of space.  We ask the Port Police if there is an emergency berth anywhere in the harbour.  They direct us back to the same place called IPTH.  They suggest we speak to Jose Gloria.  We go back again and are told this gentleman is “away until Monday”.  At this stage we give up.

Water Barge, Culatra Anchorage

Fishing Boat racing with ferry ....

While waiting for a water taxi one day, we see the water barge come in.  For boats needing water, phone Jorge Lopes +351 912621263.  Price Euro 5 / 100 Litres.

Ferries

There are regular ferries from Culatra to Olhao and Faro.  The ferries themselves are lovely, well maintained old girls which appear to have the occasional race with a fishing boat, adding to the on board entertainment.  Residents from the island load up the ferries with supplies on market day which is Saturday in Olhao.

Portugal Summer 2014

Portugal Summer 2014

SY Matelot at anchor at Isla de Culatra

The slightly chilly feeling in the air when we wake up each day reminds us we are no longer in the Med and we give thanks for the coolness allowing us to sleep soundly each night… that is when the wind is not doing its worst, which it actually has, coming in each afternoon with a howl and not settling down again until well after dark.  

We hear the Azores High is not in its usual place this year and the unseasonal wind could be due to this – there has been a dearth of lovely sundowners just lately with friends because of it.  Its not fun going out in the dinghy in a howling gale.

Several times we have caught the ferry into Olhao for shopping, phone recharges, medical appointments etc enjoying lovely weather there, only to arrive at the ferry for our return trip to the sight of white water and very fresh wind.  It has made for some interesting (freaky) landings (leaps) back on board SY Matelot from water taxis which we have been forced to use at Euro 10 per shore transfer, because our dinghy has been out of commission.  Surprisingly, although it is mid summer, our polar fleecies are never far from our reach.

 

Family on board at last!

June and July pass in a blur with lovely highlights as we have a surprise meet up in Lagos with family Nicki and Stu Weatherhead from Christchurch just prior to having Matt Catherine Elliot and Harper on board for a very quick 6 days, followed soon after in July by Emily Marc and two year old Faye from Paris.  SY Matelot will forever carry with her the sounds of children on board, laughter and good times…. We have a couple of disasters with Emily Marc and Faye on board but are thankful they are such good sports and soon we get going for a short cruise up the coast to Lagos.

The compact Algarve coast from the Guadiana River boundary between Spain and Portugal westwards to Lagos provides some of the most lovely cruising and easy short distances that we have had to date.  Soon we feel as though we are going ‘home’ when we anchor behind the breakwater in Portimao, or enjoy a day anchorage with lovely swimming close to the cliffs anywhere along this lovely coastline with its pristine golden sandy beaches and clean Atlantic waters.  The approach to Lagos marina becomes familiar also, with its festive tourist fare tents alongside the canal and old town in behind. 

Culatra Island becomes our base camp where we enjoy the company of John and Janine on NZ boat Orca Joss and also Clare and Tony on SY Hai Mei Gui, - Its been hard but someone has to join the many sundowners and guitar and singing sessions on board these two boats, so we volunteer for the job.  

The swimming on the Atlantic Ocean beach is second to none.  A ‘fresh’ dip in the clearest water over golden sand that we have enjoyed to date.  Not too salty and refreshingly chilly at around 20 deg C.  

At low tide clams are said to be found in abundance in the golden sands.

The grilled sardines or octopus with rice dishes of Culatra and Olhao are a treat and we are very lucky to taste local fare and hospitality on Culatra one day when a family kindly offer to do our boat laundry (loads of sheets and towels) for us and then invite us to taste their dinner - a large pot of boiled potatoes topped with chunks of manta ray (which have been marinated in salt and lemon juice) and heaps of thinly sliced garlic, then drizzled with a generous portion of olive oil.  The potatoes are drained just before they are cooked and the manta ray and other ingredients added, then the lid is put on the pot and it is all left to steam for 10-15 minutes before being eaten.  The combined flavours are heavenly…

Just about to squeeze under now....

Soon word comes of a ‘party’ happening up the Guadiana River with ‘music’ organised by the famous Paul and Hilary, so off we go up the Guadiana, three boats in convoy.  

Our first goal is to get over the bar at high tide which is the only option, then we anchor outside Marina Ayamonte in the brown river with its rushing current, departing the next morning to pass under the big bridge and ride the incoming tide 20NM

inland to the towns of Alcoutim on the Portugese side and San Luca close by on the Spanish side.

As we make our way up river the heat the humidity envelops us until we are in an oven filled with the sounds and flashes of golden oriels, kingfishers and other rare birds which inhabit the riverside environment.  

The party is great fun and our team acquit themselves very well.  At around 1400H each day the wind comes charging up the river like wild horses going into battle.  We are assailed by wind and current for several hours, then everything goes quiet again and cools down for the night, except for the current which stops briefly at the change of tide then carries on, bringing with it the constant sound of water and flotsam rushing and bumping past the hull.  Each day we clear the large clumps of bamboo which accumulate around the anchor chain.

Muddy Bottoms

On our last morning we make a rushed dinghy trip to the still sleeping San Luca for a quick walk around this pretty Spanish town, then up anchor to go alongside SY Hai Mei Gui for some water and a load of hand washing.  We clear the cardinal mark at the entrance to the little estuary north of Alcoutim and make for the pontoon, only to come to a sudden soft stop.  We are aground on an outgoing tide!  Matelot slews around in the current and goes over on her side with the river grabbing at her.  Cap’n Buck works the wheel and the rudder though and manages to get her free.  Phew that was a bit close.  Pippy has to have a little lie down once we are safely tied alongside HM.

Tuesday 15 July – “PumpadinghyDrama”

On the way back to Culatra the next day our bilge pump goes off and we find fresh water spilling into the bilge from our water pump.  With Emily Marc and 2 year old Faye due on board the next morning this is bad news.  All the time we have put aside to prepare the boat for them and shop for provisions, goes into trying to sort out the pump – without success.  

Cap'n Buck hams it up with Marc's hat...

We have to admit we are not very technical, but are lucky to have our friend John on board Orca Joss nearby, who diagnoses the problem.  The bolts holding the pump together have vibrated loose because the pump has not been bolted in when replaced in Palma less than a year ago. By this time we have our spare pump rewired and installed but it too is leaking – turns out it also needs a tighten up. Must be getting old like us! By Monday morning we have both pumps fixed and water on board again and the galley foot pump can take a rest.  Thanks John – we have both learnt a lot.

However Murphy is not finished with us.  On Friday while ferrying Emily and Faye to the boat from Culatra fishing harbour, the whole stern section with the outboard bolted to it, separates and starts to fall away from the pontoons of the inflatable dinghy.  We carefully make it back to the shore with water coming in over our feet, Cap'n Buck holding on to the outboard very tight and Pippy holding in the stern with one hand.   Some very kind cruisers give us all a ride back to Matelot, with our sad inflatable in tow.  Now we are stuck on board with no means of transport.  The water taxis make a good living from us over the next few days and we are immensely grateful to our friends on OJ and HM who go out of their way to help us with advice and rides ashore and back.  Thanks Maties and Missus!

This problem is not so easily fixed.  We think this is the end of our poor old dinghy so Cap’n Buck sets out to find a new one.  The Cruisers Network goes into action and soon we find out there are some good prices at Ayamonte.  Cap'n Buck combines a bit of shopping with a pleasure trip to Tavira and Ayamonte with Emily Marc and Faye (don’t think they enjoyed the dinghy buying part much), we have a ‘new’ dinghy sent to us at Lagos Marina and are fairly shocked at its appearance on arrival.  So it goes back.

Back in action - glued, patched and strapped together...

And... Cap’n Buck and Pippy set out to glue the poor old one back together again.  Heaps of dinghy glue, bits of webbing and Sikaflex later, we get it back in the water to keep us in transport to and from the shore until we can find a suitable replacement – soon we hope.