Despite the most threatening sky we have ever seen, it is exciting to be back in Syracusa, one of the most lovely towns we have been in. We rush around getting the laundry done and filling up the larder at the local daily market so that we can get some more cruising in.
Taormina north west towards the Straights of Messina is in our sights. We spend the morning tied stern to on the town wall so that we can get our 'stuff' done, but the wind soon builds and we are on a lee shore, so we need to move back to the anchorage again.
There is some interesting small sailboat racing going on and we enjoy watching them as they fly around the harbour in the stiff breeze.
As the afternoon wears on the gale starts to howl and we watch with interest as a ship makes its way into the harbour through the heads.
In the past week the weather has turned cold and very windy at times. We have experienced some very nasty squalls going through the Grand Harbour (Syracusa not Malta) and recorded up to 42 knots as we swing and sail around on our anchor here.
The most astonishing sight is a fisherman continuing on with his work despite the wind!
Karen and Nick's time is running out. Little do we know that this is to be their last night on board.
By lunchtime the next day, Sunday 9 October, the wind has eased a litted so we leave Syracusa Harbour to sail north to Taormina, but soon find ourselves in incredibly adverse weather conditions and sea state. The wind was just tricking us and is back howling with a vengeance. We can see the cliffs of Taormina in the distance, but that is our only glimpse of an anchorage we really wanted to visit, as we turn back to Syracusa Harbour and shelter.
The weather report promises more of the same for the next few days.
So suddenly, their time on board Matelot comes to an end as we all wake up to a cold and gloomy morning on Monday and Nick and Karen decide with our encouragement, to make the most of their last week in Sicily and go overland for some sightseeing.
In a flurry of packing bags, one last lunch of gorgeous juicy sliced tomatoes in basil and olive oil, tricotta, feta, gorgonzola and one other nameless cheese served with fresh bread and prosciutto, and a last minute idiot check, they are off the boat and hurrying to catch the afternoon train to Taormina. Their departure from the boat is a bit unconventional as we touch the bow of the boat to a massive rubber ship's fender on an industrial looking wharf, and they climb over and up, then we reverse away, waving as we go.
Within an hour of their departure the wind stops and the sun comes out so we take the dinghy ashore and explore the supermarket end of town, discovering the best gelato cafe we have come across so far, fish markets and supermarkets in abundance.
The decision is unanimous to duck inside the gelato cafe. Richard has a rum Ba Ba, cut in half, heated then filled with ricotta and limone flavoured gelato, topped with smarties. He is in heaven.
Pippy is a bit more conservative in her choice. We continue to the supermarket, do a bit of a stock up in preparation for our departure for Ragusa then make our way back to Matelot loaded with stuff we didn't know we needed.
Our timing is impeccable and within minutes of climbing aboard Matelot in late afternoon fading light, we are hit by a huge squall, with freezing cold wind but no rain. The sky is absolutely clear and the wind is biting cold, sending the boat skittling around on its anchor and making it hard to stand up inside and cook dinner. We snuggle into bed for an early night. Its a quiet ship.
We are just the two of us again. Another cruising season appears to be drawing to a close a little earlier than we had hoped. We review our options as are not due into Marina di Ragusa until 1 November. However a quick phone call is all it takes to discover that the contract we have at Marina di Ragusa actually started on 1 October, so we can 'go now' if we wish.
The gale appears to be quietening but the sky still growls at us.
Given the weather conditions, that is the decision we make and the early morning of Wednesday 12 October sees us motoring our way southwards down the coast in no wind at all and calm seas. Rounding Cape Passaro, surprise surprise the wind is now on the nose. We follow the 20 metre contour which extends quite a long way out in places and arrive in Marine di Ragusa in good time.
This little guy keeps us company for a while.
The massive breakwater/sea wall is a comforting sight as the coast is very exposed to the south, both east and west. A Marinara in a rib boat meets us and leads us to our berth. The doubtful (or maybe confused?) look on his face should have alerted us. As Richard turns the boat to reverse into the channel between the pontoons he suddenly notices that we are in very shallow water - 2m in fact! That is the limit of what we draw but the depth meter suddenly goes back to 2.3m, so very slowly we continue to follow the rib, when ...Bang! We have hit something very solid! Probably a large concrete mooring block. We are out of there fast and escorted to the next pontoon where we soon have the boat made fast.
We did not really need that adrenaline rush at the end of this day. Soon we are off the boat for a quick walk around the new marina to acclimatise ourselves and locate the facilities..... Despite being modern and new, it is quite a shock to discover that it is a ten minute walk to the nearest shower and toilet block, not just for us, but for everyone. The light is fading and we are suddenly not sure if we have made the right decision. We are here for the next six months and it feels a bit daunting right now.
Oh well, tomorrow is another day and we will explore further then. After a few jobs back on the boat, its time for dinner and bed.
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