Mystra, Sparta and Naplion

Just a small part of the ruins of Mystra with Sparti spread out on the plains below.

The drive over the mountains from Kalamata to Mystra is something amazing in itself with heartstopping switchback corners stacked vertically down the sheer drop and stretches of road which are carved underneath rocky outcrops which extend right across the road with nothing to support them on the outside. Driving under these is quite freaky. The occasional tunnel is a relief and there are a couple which are long and impressive.

Mystra


The view from the fortress at the top of the mountain.


Richard making like a defender of old... or and old defender!

The beginnings of this astonishing city date back to obscure Medieval times. It is known that the fortress on the mountain-top was built in 1249 and soon fell into the hands of the Byzantines who developed the site extending the fortifications right down the side of Mt Taygetos, dominating ancient Sparta. It is obvious this has been a place of noble residences and many churches and monasteries. At its peak, approximately 40,000 people lived here.


Inside St Sophia

The ruins, some of which are beautifully restored, tell a story of an advanced society who enjoyed art and philosophy and all the good things of life. Sadly the city was sacked and burned by a Russian and Albanian invasion in 1825 and abandoned soon after. Now it sits in its alpine environment with verdant vegetation clambering over its gaping ruins. Those buildings which have survived intact or been restored rise up in their iconic forms from a relief of cypress trees and rampant vegetation.


Remnants of past glory


Holding on for grim death


Not something someone with vertigo should be doing!

We explore the ruins for two hours, climbing down as far as the huge building which was once the centre of administration for the Byzantine Empire, and which is almost totally restored today, still wrapped in scaffold in parts. Turning to make our way uphill and back to the car, we push ourselves to climb back up in the afternoon heat, arriving feeling a little exhausted and very much in need of a cold drink, remembering at the same time that we have not yet booked a hotel. After several stops we drive to Sparti and find a hotel room. It is a very popular area.

Naplion

The next morning, although having planned to go back and see more of Mystra, we decide to carry on to Naplion which also merits some inspection. Richard drives us with his usual skill and we arrive around about 11.00 am.


View from Palamedes Fort

We are not sure if we really have time to see this city which was the capital of Greece from 1829 to 1834, so it is a whistle stop tour.

It is a very pretty town but we are drawn to the walk up to the fort we can see perched high above us. We count 1,000 steps each way and feel that we have done our exercise for the day.

Driving back to Kalamata that afternoon on the new highway, parts of which are not yet open, is a much easier option than going back via Mystra!