Ionian Sea to Gulf of Patras and under the Rion Bridge

18 October 2008 – 6 pm

We are now tied to the town wall in Vathi (Ithaka) beside two other yachts – the numbers are less in this port - another very sheltered harbour tucked into the heart of this large island. We have spent the afternoon in yet another idyllic spot (Skhoinos), just one bay around from here, where we enjoy a swim and time to write and read.

The atmosphere today is slightly misty and ethereal looking but not yet cold. The locals tell us it will rain overnight and so it does. There are a few flashes of lightning and claps of thunder from the surrounding mountains, which make me nervous, but that is all. Richard puts on an extra spring just in case and we put up our bimini and spray dodger so we can be cosy and dry.

The shops here are all open so I buy fresh vegetables and meat and make us a big feed of Spaghetti Bolognese and salad.

19 October 2008

We awake to the sound of heavy rain around 6 am. It is a nice sound – the boat was getting really dirty and water is precious, so we will be getting a good wash down. There has been no wind during the night that we were aware of. We drift in and out of sleep until around 7.30 am. After purchasing bread we make our way out of the harbour, pulling up the main as we clear the heads past the gorgeous classical looking chapel on the headland and the ancient looking ruins. A light breeze kicks in and soon we are sailing as we turn to say farewell to Ithaka and Cephallonia and the Ionian Sea. We have done a whistle stop tour and promise ourselves we will be back to relax and cruise these lovely parts when the weather is more suitable. Maybe we will also read Homer over the winter.

As the day progresses the sun comes out and dries the sodden canvas. We are slipping along in very calm seas and a constant breeze with the Gulf of Patras in our sights as we pass Nisos Oxia to port. There are only a few yachts about but a number of fast ferries coming and going - we have to tack away to avoid one which is determined to run us down.

We are closer to the northern shore and the vista changes from high mountainous country to flat salt marshes away to port and the sea state becomes a little more short and choppy. We are reminded to exercise caution as we suddenly notice the depth go from 20 metres down to 6 metres – we have strayed too close to the coast as we lay into the entrance to the Missalonghi channel.

A fascinating experience ensues as we motor up this channel past houses on stilts into an almost finished but vandalised marina made up of a series of pontoons but devoid of any kind of management. The pontoon we tie up to has flash looking solar panels set up to run each light, all broken. We are accustomed to being surrounded by tall craggy mountains and cliffs, but tonight we are in a landscape of flatness stretching into the far distance against the backdrop of a mountain range of mainland Greece far away to the north of us.

20 October 2008

It takes us 30 minutes to motor back out of the channel on this gorgeous blue morning with reflections all around us.

As we sight the magnificent Rion Bridge in the distance we notice the sea state changing from flat calm to short and choppy and within another ten minutes, we are getting wind of 18 knots, gusting to 28. Up go the sails and we are off, screaming across the water towards the city of Patras. I do suggest that we reef as we go up but Richard has a gleem in his eye and there is no chance. “We will reef if we need to” he says!

Five miles distant from the Rion Bridge we need to call Bridge Control and ask for permission to passage under the bridge. They instruct us to keep 3 pylons to port and 1 to our right side, which is strange language I think. Why not 1 to starboard? We are to call in again 1 mile out. We are in white water now and Richard opts to get the sails down. We will motor underneath the bridge. We are both starving by now and grab what we can find for snacks. I am eating delicious baklava (Richard does not like it) and almost call us in as “Baklava… Baklava…. Baklava, instead of Matelot… The Rion Bridge is truly absolutely huge. We feel dwarfed by the massive white pylons which resemble sailing ships from a distance.

Beyond the Rion Bridge our destination is the small and very lovely Venetian port of Navpaktos, famous because it was used by the Turkish fleet to prepare themselves before the battle of …... We poke our nose in there to find that it is filled up with fishing boats and one large sailing ship. The locals appear to have strung up a wire across from the land to the entrance at top of mast height, to stop boats with masts from turning left and going in. A bit dangerous if you don’t see it in time! We anchor off the beach and swim and relax, much later on taking the dinghy ashore for a good aerobic walk up the hill to inspect the fort which overlooks the town and straights below. By the time we return to Matelot there are 6 more yachts anchored near to us. For once the wind stays constant and we enjoy a sheltered night in this anchorage.

We go to sleep with the lights of the fort above us reflecting off the water. Out comes the camera but it is difficult to get a good with the gentle rocking movement of the boat.