Dubrovnik and the Bora...

Photos from the bottom...

Walk to Lastovo Village from Skrivena Luka
Cat on bike is how we feel after a rough night in Zaton
Old City of Dubrovnik
Dubrovnik Bridge as we motor under it on our way to ACI Marina
Matelot wedged in safely in ACI Marina the morning after...


21 September 2008

In our last blog, we were heading for Dubrovnik on 16 Sept. However, we did take a little more time over this as we called in to Scrivena Luka, the south eastern harbour on Lastovo Island, and spent 2 nights in this enchanting place.

On 17 Sept we are feeling energetic so decide to take a walk over the ridge to the town of Lastovo. The sign says 3 miles and it does not sound like too far away so off we go. It turns out to be quite an uphill climb, then a long downhill on the other side. The countryside transforms as we go from barren hills, to wild olive trees and very fragrant pine trees on uncultivated land, to vineyards loaded with grapes when we get closer to Lastovo township. The island is well known for its good quality wines.

By the time we have reached Lastovo, we are parched and ready for a large glass of Lasko Pivo! (the local beer) The township itself is built like an amphitheatre in the side of the mountain with a castle on the top of the hill. This means we have to climb up through narrow stony streets and old stairways past ancient stone houses, some derelict, until we get to the top of the ridge again and find a café where we sit and look across the road at the worst instance of a leaky building we have ever seen, built recently and built very cheaply and blocking a million dollar view across the straight to Korcula Island. It is a real contrast to the charm and beauty of the old village below. The permanent inhabitants on the island are apparently now 100, having declined dramatically over recent years.

On our return to the boat we notice we have some Australian neighbours on a boat called Clementine. We meet them (Stewart, Kylie and 5 year old daughter Sam) and have dinner on our second night in this gorgeous bay at the restaurant ashore. We enjoy swapping stories and information and then head off in different directions. Clementine is clearing customs on Lastovo and heading for Greece.

18 September 2008

It is a 24 mile passage from Lastovo Island to the northern end of Mljet Island and we decide this is enough distance for one day. We sail and motor as usual – motoring more than we want to. This part of Mljet Island is a national park and rightly so, as it is very well preserved. We stop for a look at the northern end and drop the anchor for a couple of hours. However we have become very picky about where we anchor and feel it is too small and a bit exposed. We motor the 5 miles around to the fully enclosed harbour of Polace where we spend a well protected night in calm water in the company of around 8 other boats also anchored.

The season has truly changed and for the past week our experience has been that almost every night the wind comes up and it is a guessing game from what direction. So it is with our night in Polace as we hear the wind howling overhead. The end result is that we are not sleeping that well and both of us are up several times checking the boat during the night, mostly making sure we are still in the same place! So far we have not dragged the anchor touch wood.

We are awake early and decide to use the breeze to get as far as we can towards Dubrovnik before we have to motor. This strategy works well and we leave Mljet behind at 7.00am, having a rushed breakfast as we motor out through the forested fjord-like exit. It is a 30 mile passage today. We are well clear of Mljet before we have to motor the last 10 miles for our anchorage in Zaton which is a short bus ride from Dubrovnik. We have been told about this spot by our recent Australian friends and it looks good as we reverse into the berth and pick up the laid moorings. It is well protected from the NE which is where the wind is predicted to come from overnight. It is nice to be able to walk off the boat on to dry land for a change.

We are keen to see Dubrovnik and get the first available bus in at 3.45 pm, leaving the boat securely tied up and locked up.

Dubrovnik – words fail us. A special city with amazing history. So beautiful we cannot believe. Built of white stone and ancient, streets polished to a shine - which picks up the light at night – by the many feet which have walked here over the centuries. We feel so privileged to be walking through these streets as we explore the old city. It is a shame to leave so early but our bus goes at 8.30pm and we are feeling a little exhausted.

All is calm on our return so we gratefully pile into bed and are asleep in minutes. It is the familiar howling of the wind which wakes us to find that Matelot is taking the wind on her port bow and straining at the mooring line, so that we are lying at an angle against the town wall. We quickly assemble another line to the middle cleat on the port side, back to the wall and on to a winch. This seems to help and straighten us up a bit. Richard also finds another mooring line further up the quay and adds that to the one already on the bow. There is nothing more we can do except try to sleep – fitfully I think the word is! The wind seems to be coming from the SE and is truly howling, coming in freezing cold gusts. We are fine - and the next morning it is relatively calm and the sun is shining on the ropes going in all directions from Matelot! The cockpit is a busy looking place.

20 September 2008

We decide to check in to the Dubrovnik ACI Marina for a night – enough is enough. They tell us that the “Bora” which is the name for this particular wind, will strengthen again during the day and the night and will be worse than last night. As we motor under the magnificent bridge and up the valley towards the marina, gusts of 30 knot wind hit us. The marina is tucked in at the head of the valley and looks to be surrounded with “catabatic” hills where the wind will accelerate downwards on to us. However, the water is very calm and there are lots of boats here. The narrow space that we are directed to squeeze into once we arrive looks impossible but somehow we manage it and it is a relief to wedge Matelot in and tie up around midday.

As the day passes and the wind increases, we are very pleased to be here. It is an interesting place with charters arriving and getting ready for their “week on the water”. We walk to the nearby village with our gas tanks and get them refilled – a job which needed to be done. By 6pm the gusts are really building and as each gust hits, the line of boats tied up all move sideways by a boat width, all in unison, like a dance. It is a good thing that the pontoon we are tied to is fixed not floating or we would be taking a further trip! Amazingly, around 9pm, the wind suddenly stops, as quickly as it has arrived the night before and there is silence. We sleep soundly and awake feeling much better.

21 September 2008 – Sunday

We are off to Dubrovnik sight seeing today. Not sure how it will be as there are 3 huge cruise ships tied up.