Date: 29 April 2008
Kos – N. Leros (Pandeli)
Depart Kos around 1.00pm and head North West towards N. Leros past the island of Kalimnos. We sail in flat sea and sunshine with a cool wind around 14k from North East until we round the island at Pandeli which is on the Eastern side of N. Leros. Wind comes ahead as we sight the sea wall at Pandeli. At this time of the year there only appear to be 2-3 other yachts moored in behind the sea wall and we motor around to berth alongside a charter Jeanneau with some Austrians on board.
The small deep bay in behind the sea wall is a mass of coloured wooden fishing boats and they normally have priority where we are able to moor. They are friendly and tolerate our presence as they sit on the sea wall and repair their nets. During the height of the summer yachts must moor stern to on the outer part of the sea wall or alternatively out in the bay which is 4-8m depth.
We wander ashore and take in the classic colourful Greek houses built around narrow hilly streets, mysterious alleyways disappearing behind curved steps and Tavernas dotted along the waterfront for our choice of eating place later in the day. We dine at of all places “Zorba the Greek” and the food is excellent. We have Greek salad with a slab of local cheese on the top, taramasalata, fried aubergine, moussaka (Rupert’s best yet), kalamari (dipped in flour and deep fried whole) – and spaghetti carbonara. Washed down by a carafe of the local red wine. Recommend a visit to this Taverna if anyone is calling in to Pandeli in the future.
The castle on the peak of the mountain above the town looks to be an interesting walk. It turns out to be around 7th century with a charming church inside it fully restored by the local community. The castle can be reached by car or by walking to the village over the hill and up the steps – follow the signs from the village. We take a morning walk at 8.00am the next morning via the road which winds its way up and over the other side of the island. We soon find we are seeing it at the very best time of the year when the wildflowers which grow wild everywhere are just finishing their flowering, and the fragrance of chamomile and thyme is wafting on the breeze. As we walk we take in the view of the sea all around and the gulls circling way below us. We find the castle locked but a voice hails us from some distance down the steps and a gracious charming elderly lady called Zambetta climbs up to us and lets us in (free of charge as we have brought no money). Zambetta shows us the treasure – the church – still full of flowers from the Greek Easter celebrations. She explains that the wildflowers will all be cleaned up soon and the tourist season will begin. We explore this outstanding ancient castle until our appetite gets the better of us and we say our goodbyes to Zambetta who implores us to “please come back again!”
We have our breakfast on the boat and depart Pandeli around 11.00am.
Wednesday 30 April
Pandeli – Nisos Fournoi
The sun is out today and the chill has gone from the wind. Rupe and Richard are talking about a South West breeze forecast which will mean they can get the gennaker up or maybe even the spinnaker. We start with the gennaker and make a good 6k with a following gentle breeze. Nisos Fournoi is quite a distance to the north but promises to be a great place to stop around Ormos Kladharidhi or Ormos Marmaro. I am really looking forward to a swim as we have not stopped at an anchorage since Knidos and the water is looking very inviting today. We get our first touch of the sun and sea and sailing and this is what we have come for. The day passes with the two sails tried out and finally the engine on as the breeze drops out. We have a moment of drama as Richard’s Tilley hat goes over the side and we practice our man overboard drill, dropping the spinnaker and throwing over the lifebuoy to mark the place. We turn around and rescue both the hat and the lifebuoy and continue on our way with a new spinnaker hoist.
Kos – N. Leros (Pandeli)
Depart Kos around 1.00pm and head North West towards N. Leros past the island of Kalimnos. We sail in flat sea and sunshine with a cool wind around 14k from North East until we round the island at Pandeli which is on the Eastern side of N. Leros. Wind comes ahead as we sight the sea wall at Pandeli. At this time of the year there only appear to be 2-3 other yachts moored in behind the sea wall and we motor around to berth alongside a charter Jeanneau with some Austrians on board.
The small deep bay in behind the sea wall is a mass of coloured wooden fishing boats and they normally have priority where we are able to moor. They are friendly and tolerate our presence as they sit on the sea wall and repair their nets. During the height of the summer yachts must moor stern to on the outer part of the sea wall or alternatively out in the bay which is 4-8m depth.
We wander ashore and take in the classic colourful Greek houses built around narrow hilly streets, mysterious alleyways disappearing behind curved steps and Tavernas dotted along the waterfront for our choice of eating place later in the day. We dine at of all places “Zorba the Greek” and the food is excellent. We have Greek salad with a slab of local cheese on the top, taramasalata, fried aubergine, moussaka (Rupert’s best yet), kalamari (dipped in flour and deep fried whole) – and spaghetti carbonara. Washed down by a carafe of the local red wine. Recommend a visit to this Taverna if anyone is calling in to Pandeli in the future.
The castle on the peak of the mountain above the town looks to be an interesting walk. It turns out to be around 7th century with a charming church inside it fully restored by the local community. The castle can be reached by car or by walking to the village over the hill and up the steps – follow the signs from the village. We take a morning walk at 8.00am the next morning via the road which winds its way up and over the other side of the island. We soon find we are seeing it at the very best time of the year when the wildflowers which grow wild everywhere are just finishing their flowering, and the fragrance of chamomile and thyme is wafting on the breeze. As we walk we take in the view of the sea all around and the gulls circling way below us. We find the castle locked but a voice hails us from some distance down the steps and a gracious charming elderly lady called Zambetta climbs up to us and lets us in (free of charge as we have brought no money). Zambetta shows us the treasure – the church – still full of flowers from the Greek Easter celebrations. She explains that the wildflowers will all be cleaned up soon and the tourist season will begin. We explore this outstanding ancient castle until our appetite gets the better of us and we say our goodbyes to Zambetta who implores us to “please come back again!”
We have our breakfast on the boat and depart Pandeli around 11.00am.
Wednesday 30 April
Pandeli – Nisos Fournoi
The sun is out today and the chill has gone from the wind. Rupe and Richard are talking about a South West breeze forecast which will mean they can get the gennaker up or maybe even the spinnaker. We start with the gennaker and make a good 6k with a following gentle breeze. Nisos Fournoi is quite a distance to the north but promises to be a great place to stop around Ormos Kladharidhi or Ormos Marmaro. I am really looking forward to a swim as we have not stopped at an anchorage since Knidos and the water is looking very inviting today. We get our first touch of the sun and sea and sailing and this is what we have come for. The day passes with the two sails tried out and finally the engine on as the breeze drops out. We have a moment of drama as Richard’s Tilley hat goes over the side and we practice our man overboard drill, dropping the spinnaker and throwing over the lifebuoy to mark the place. We turn around and rescue both the hat and the lifebuoy and continue on our way with a new spinnaker hoist.
Soon we anchor in a quiet bay with most of the houses still with shutters closed. We dive over and swim to the beach. The only other cruise boat is a small gulet with an Italian flag flying. The water is chilly but refreshing and such a relief after a long hot day of sailing. Dinner of lamb chops purchased in Kos is delicious with all the trimmings and strawberries for dessert. We settle down to a quiet night, but are soon disturbed as the kedge anchor over the stern is dragged by a fresh wind coming in from the south east. Rupert throws it over again and we seem to settle down.
2 comments:
excelent photos! what camera do you use?
Buck and Pippy, You have certainly had a great start for your big adventure. I have a Greek Islands Lonely Planet so I am following your route with interest.
We had a couple of nights away on Matrix at Anzac weekend -Oneroa and Onetangi-absolutely perfect. The weather has now turned to winter. Next Saturday we fly off to Shanghai and then to Germany.
Cheers Noel
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